Times Topics: Connecticut Dining Sparing Some Frills and the Wallet
Two months ago, Palomino became Greenwich Tavern, where the menu is more everyday accessible, not special-occasion fancy, and the prices are more affordable. Most first courses are in the $10 to $13 range, most entrees $18 to $24. (Formerly, lunch dishes were up to $34, dinner entrees to $42).
The new menu is also more down-to-earth, with no foie gras or chanterelle-crayfish risotto, but more tavernesque dishes like a rib-eye white bean chili (fiery, with lots of beef bits), sizzling hot in a little covered casserole.
What hasn't changed - to my delight - is the consistently high quality of the ingredients and cooking style. The food is still excellent, with creative renderings of familiar dishes, like fried oysters (ever-so-lightly breaded) served in their shells on a tiny bed of angel hair carbonara with bacon and tomato in a piquant lime-tomato relish.
When asked if I could order the ramp butter risotto as a small plate instead of the entree it was listed as, the waiter checked with the kitchen and said yes. Like the chili and a number of other small plates, the risotto came in its individual piping hot casserole. Half the entree price, it was certainly ample - and cooked flawlessly. Creamy firm-grained rice, full of ramps, peas and other veggies, it made a perfect second course.
Other dishes that more than lived up to their promise were crispy calamari (light and plentiful) with a spicy chipotle tomato dip; a variety of succulent raw oysters served with a Champagne mignonette, smoky tomato sauce and, curiously, a minuscule bottle of Tabasco sauce; and shrimp and bay scallop ceviche (in a piquant citrus marinade with charred tomato and cucumber).
The freshest of yellowfin tuna tartare was no slouch either; it came with chopped tomato and avocado on a blanket of thinly sliced cucumbers. Another small plate - an unusual shrimp dumpling that combined andouille and mushrooms with the shrimp - was tucked into a bamboo steamer and served with a soy ginger dip. Although the sausage tended to overwhelm the shrimp, the combination of textures was pleasing.
Of the seven salad choices, three of us decided to share a warm spinach salad - an abundance of greens in a bacon dressing with crisp bacon pieces on top.
While bouillabaisse was a bountiful sea garden of mussels, shrimp, clams, lobster, scallops and fish, there was surprisingly little broth, and what there was lacked distinctive briny flavor. But all other main courses were exemplary - from the seared magret duck breast (medium-rare slices, as ordered, in a dried cherry-pomegranate reduction, with sweet potato purée) to the absolute perfection of braised Angus short ribs, with saffron mashed potatoes and wild mushrooms. Even a side of rosemary Parmesan fries, popping out of a paper cone, met the enthusiastic approval of the demanding frites expert at our table.
Desserts were a delight, especially the flourless chocolate cake with an echo of Kahlúa, the tangy Key lime pie and the bourbon pecan tart. (Only the house-made bourbon pecan ice cream was a grainy letdown.) And a cheese platter with four different North American artisanal cheeses (blue, goat, raw cow's milk, triple crème) made a grand finale to an exceptional meal.
Greenwich Tavern may have lowered its prices, but its standards remain high.
THE SPACE A free-standing building, with entrance and bar in center, small dining room to the left and main dining room on the right. A large Americana painting graces a wall the width of the dining room. Wheelchair access to front entrance.
THE CROWD Mixed ages, mostly from 30s upward, in neat-casual attire. Well-trained waiters.
THE BAR Full bar. Large wine list, especially strong on French and West Coast selections. Bottles begin at $34; by the glass, $8 to $13. For a "tavern," the beer list is limited; it probably should be augmented.
THE BILL Lunch and dinner menus are the same. Small plates, sandwiches and salads: $8 to $16. Entrees: $16 to $32. Desserts: $8 to $9 (cheese platter $16). Most major credit cards are accepted.
WHAT WE LIKE Fried oysters, raw bar oysters, crispy calamari, rib-eye white bean chili, yellowfin tuna tartare, warm spinach salad, shrimp and bay scallop ceviche; ramp butter risotto, bouillabaisse, braised Angus short ribs, seared magret duck breast; flourless chocolate cake, Key lime tart, cheese platter, bourbon pecan tart.
IF YOU GO Lunch: Sunday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner: Sunday through Wednesday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m. Reservations accepted. Valet parking in lot to the left of the restaurant.
Two months ago, Palomino became Greenwich Tavern, where the menu is more everyday accessible, not special-occasion fancy, and the prices are more affordable. Most first courses are in the $10 to $13 range, most entrees $18 to $24. (Formerly, lunch dishes were up to $34, dinner entrees to $42).